No matter how careful you are, sooner or later you’ll be staring at rust caked on tools or outdoor furniture. The question is what is the best way to deal with it?

You’ve got three choices. The first requires elbow grease and a little sweat, the second is very fast, and the third is also a time-saver, but you’ll have to endure intense fumes. It comes down to a personal call.

Here’s how the three methods work:

1. Sand, grind, scour.  Choice of tools depends upon the amount of rust that has to be removed. For small areas, a traditional hand sander does the job. To clean hard-to- reach tiny spaces, an oscillating tool with a carbide rasp or a sanding pad attachment is equally efficient.  For large areas, a grinder fitted with a stripping disc does the job quickly. Whichever tool you use, start with the coarsest paper to attack well-entrenched rust. Once removed, use a finer grit sandpaper to smooth the grooves caused by the coarser grit paper.

2. Chemical method.  Any well-stocked home-supply store has a variety of harsh chemicals to choose from.  While they all essentially do the same job, read labels and accompanying literature carefully because some are faster-acting than others. Most rust-remover chemicals contain phosphoric or hydrochloric acid, which breaks down and dissolves rust.  Depending upon the chemical, they can either be brushed or sprayed on surfaces.  There are also gel formulas for removing rust from vertical surfaces.

Whichever chemical you choose, keep in mind that they release strong, intense fumes. Take all essential precautions. Wear goggles, rubber gloves and use a respirator rather than a dust mask. You’ll also need a cheap paintbrush, rags and a putty knife. Once the chemicals are applied, wait about 15 minutes (recommended wait time varies slightly with each chemical).

Don’t expect miracles. Most chemicals don’t yield immediate results, and seldom remove all the rust with one application. Once you’ve waited the appropriate amount of time, scrape off the liquefied rust. Depending upon the amount of rust, plan on at least three applications to remove all the rust.

3. Conversion method. Rust converters are sold as a brushable liquid or in aerosol sprays. I’ve never tried a rust converter, but friends say they work and advise buying the brushable liquid because it penetrates surfaces better than the spray method.  While it’s the easiest method, keep in mind that it doesn’t leave a clean, smooth finish. The result is a rough, pockmarked surface, which actually looks quite good. If you like the popular distressed look, you’ll like what the converter does to surfaces.  The good news is rust converters save a lot of time. Most importantly, it gets rid of rust and prevents it from spreading.  When it dries, it acts as an excellent primer if you plan to paint the surface.

My favourite is the first method. It requires a little elbow grease, but I don’t have to endure harsh chemicals, and it unfailingly gets the job done. And if you catch the rust before it’s well-entrenched, it often comes off quickly with a hand sander.  But if time is a factor, and rust has to be removed from large areas, I’d use a strong chemical. As I said earlier, compare the products on the market. Some are more effective than others. It’s a nasty process; the goal is to buy the best product that requires the fewest applications.